Friday, May 29, 2009

THE CALIFORNIA ZEPHYR

Leaving once a day from Chicago's Union Station, Amtrak's California Zephyr passes through the heartland before reaching Denver and becoming one of the most scenic rides in North America.


(Image courtesy of Amtrak)

After a day in Chicago, I will board the Zephyr and head further west for two days. I can already vouch for the trip through the Sierra Nevadas and close to the Tahoe area, but I am also looking forward to the Rocky Mountains and desert plateau of Nevada, which I have driven through many times but never had the opportunity to cross through without at least one eye on the road.


(Photo courtesy of breakthroughgen.org)

Because I am ultimately trying to reach Vancouver, I will get off the train in Sacramento to meet up with a northbound train for Seattle. More on that later...

Thursday, May 28, 2009

THE LAKE SHORE LIMITED TO CHICAGO

My first leg of the journey will start from Penn Station in New York City on Sunday, October 11th at just before 4pm. Will you be there to send me off?


(Image courtesy of Amtrak)

From NYC, it heads north to meet up with the main line that travels the entire distance from Boston to Chicago. I do not think that this leg of the journey holds inspiration views, but I am excited about it not only because it is how my trip begins, but also that it was the starting leg of Paul Theroux's epic train journey south in The Old Patagonian Express.

I'm booked on a simple recliner seat for this part of the journey, a ho-hum overnight trip of about 20 hours. In Chicago, my friend Joshua of Blindsided Books has spoken of planning some sort of author meet and greet at a small local bookstore to promote my upcoming book about Senegal and Mali and also speak about the plans for this new journey and book. I'm looking forward to (not to mention petrified of) this immensely.

I think the lack of amazing scenery will not be any disappointment, as there will be about one million emotions swimming through my mind for at least the first few hours. I doubt I sleep at all on this the first night of over 400.

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

EXPERIENCE SECURING RUSSIAN VISA?

I am applying for only three visas before I leave. Thankfully the rest that I will need, which are plenty, are available at borders or more easily in consulates along the way.


(Image courtesy of Wikipedia Commons/Osipov Georgy Nokka)

Does anyone have experience getting Russian visas? If so, let me know about how you went about getting documentation regarding an invitation. It's required, at least for Americans, to include this as part of your visa application. It looks like the normal way to do it is to have a Russian travel agency take care of your first night's accommodation and this letter, but I have no way of saying what my date of arrival will be, so it makes things a bit tricky.

If I have to lose the money for this booking, then so be it, but I was just wondering if someone has some stories about going through this.

SHE WILL LEARN TO LOVE YOU

A sad aspect of this trip is the fact that Luna will be homeless when I leave. She does not travel well (she was so mortified in the airport once that she peed on me out of fear), so would anyone in New York be interested in adopting her?



Obviously I would be interested in getting her back when I return, but if you have formed such an unbreakable bond that sadness would take over your life if she left, I won't force her from your arms. I might just demand visitation rights.

Monday, May 25, 2009

THE SPIRIT CAUGHT ME...

...But hopefully I will not fall down.

I just finished a book concerning one Hmong family that immigrated (although not from desire) to the United States after the Vietnam War, and the ensuing culture conflicts that came with this move. One of their daughters was severely epilectic, and treating her in the American system was problematic for all parties involved, family and doctors both. The Hmong culture and western medical system have absolutely nothing in common, besides maybe a desire for health.


(Photo courtesy of Wikipedia Commons/Cristophe Meneboeuf)

While the medical parts were sometimes very clinical and hard to get through, the history of the people and especially their treatment by various groups wanting to control them really got me interested. I've since thought more about my upcoming time in both northern Vietnam and Laos and adjusted some things to spend more time seeing things in person, and hopefully learning as much as I can. I am often times fascinated by groups of people that have such strong heritage but never a country to call their own. For the Hmong in fact, the idea of a country and political system and borders would not even function, and this "ancient" way of thinking is probably what has let them to be the punching bags of the region for some time. It's amazing how they can preserve so much though.

The Spirit Catches You and You Fall Down: A Hmong Child, Her American Doctors, and the Collision of Two Cultures, by Anne Fadiman. Recommended.

Sunday, May 24, 2009

TURKMENISTAN IS TELLING ME NO

Originally I was thinking this trip would combine another old wish of mine into its route, traveling west in China to Kashgar and into Central Asia via Kyrgyzstan. Afterwards through Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan and traversing the Caspian Sea to Azerbaijan and continuing west towards Europe via Turkey.

Unfortunately Turkmenistan has basically made me edit my westward route up into Russia because it seems that without a dedicated trip to Central Asia and a lot of advance planning, including invitations and such, I would probably be turned back at the border. This would obviously create problems both in time and money, both of which I am not willing to risk in such vast amounts, which this detour would create.


I think I will have to relegate this Central Asia trip to another time, visiting the other "stan" countries and western China together in one trip. Hey, maybe that will be the second book...?

Saturday, May 23, 2009

HARBIN ICE FESTIVAL

I have always wanted to attend this event in northeast China.

On January 5th, 2010, you know where to find me, even if the temperatures might be approaching -40...





More photos available here.

Friday, May 22, 2009

CHINA BY RAIL

One of the things I am looking forward to the most about this journey is extensive travel by rail. On many trips with time restraints, I end up taking more buses than trains for reasons of scheduling, as it is often much easier to go on one of many daily buses. In most countries outside of Europe, the train is often much slower than buses as well, creating a dilemma.

China has a lot of people, and a lot of trains. From all accounts, half the country is always seemingly boarding the same train as you, no matter what your destination and no matter what time. I can deal with this, as the reward of train travel starts when the train pulls out of the station. You can enjoy the scenery more peacefully, many trains are open air, and taking photos on or of trains is about a million times more successful than any taken aboard buses.


The map above shows the various lines in the China rail system, of which I plan to spend about six weeks hopping from town to town. My roommate from Shanghai will probably snicker when I say my Mandarin is improving, but one of my most important goals for this trip is to be able to speak as much with people in China as possible. Mandarin obviously does not guarantee me conversations with everyone, but I think it will give me better insight when talking with some people. I would hate to only have the perspectives of those that have learned English.

I will be writing about these adventures to no end, but to those with an interest now, I recommend checking out Paul Theroux's Riding the Iron Rooster: By Train Through China

Thursday, May 21, 2009

BOOK LIST

I've had a "wish list" put together in Amazon.com for a while now with a bunch of the reading material I want to get through either before or during my trip. I have been able to start putting the money towards some of the books that are not available in Kindle format (more on that later), and trips to Idlewild Books and boxes from Amazon have started to happen.

I've added a new list to the right of this page not only for myself to organize my thoughts and progress, but to share some of the things that are going through my brain. Since I am able to concentrate almost full-time on this research, that means I get to read a lot more. Yes, I like my new job.



Some of the books are about general concepts like nationalism while some are very specific topics like a country or certain type of people. I'm trying to get as much in my head about the things I will come across before I am there, obviously to aid me when I am talking with people, asking the right questions, etc. I would be very happy if my friends and strangers alike will propose more books to me about their countries and cultures that they deem essential reading.

So check out the "Book List" on the right column at the bottom. They are all clickable if you want to see more about the book.

Tuesday, May 19, 2009

AS PROMISED...

Blindsided Books has put up a project page for the planned publishing of my stories from Africa. There is plenty of information about the project, and if you have the inspiration and extra money laying around, feel free to become a patron of the book! Patrons help fund the registration of ISBN, graphic design, and other things that make a book a book. I am very much looking forward to editing my works and seeing the finished product in print form. Joshua Wentz, the creator of Blindsided Books does some great work with publishing various design-related journals and magazines and I am sure the book will look excellent.

The tentative title of the book is The Calm of the Niger, The Storm of Africa.

The project page is located here:

I will of course keep you up to date when something is available.

Monday, May 18, 2009

ALL ABOARD!

This cargo ship business is not as simple as one might think. In the beginning I contacted four companies that work as brokers, sort of the travel agents for cruising by freighter. The trouble is that the ships do not view human cargo with as much importance as their regular cargo, so the terms and limitations are exceedingly frustrating for someone that wants to make a plan.



They wanted a deposit to give me dates. I wanted dates so that I could give a deposit. In the end, I was able to secure passage with a company that has more regular routes and times than others, with only a +/- 3 day window of departure. I was happy enough with this, and sent them the deposit, as well as some other forms showing that I am in working health and am willing to risk everything.

The health forms make sense. Most of the clients for this kind of travel are retired couples of ages where health issues can be of major concern out at sea without a doctor. The passenger "declaration" is the funny one. We are all used to filling out consent forms waving our right to sue in case of injury, etc., but this form is basically saying "Stay the hell away from us and don't expect a thing."



At any rate, the Hanjin Madrid is scheduled to leave Vancouver on (or around) the 21st of October. I plan to be in the city early in the morning on the 18th, so this should not be a problem. My first time in Vancouver was very pleasant but thoroughly too short, so I look forward to seeing a few more days worth.

The cargo ship is by far the most expensive aspect of any transportation I will be taking on this journey. The two-week trip costs $2,000, but includes full room and board.

Saturday, May 16, 2009

I'VE BEEN BLINDSIDED

A very good friend of mine has recently launched a publishing company of his own called Blindsided Books. I will have more information on this soon, but we are now in the beginning stages of publishing my stories from Senegal and Mali.



I think it is the perfect time to try this, hopefully for both of us. His idea for publishing the stories will also include some of my photos, and should turn out to be an amazing product like everything he makes.

The website can be found here:

Some of his other past publications and such can be found here:

Friday, May 15, 2009

LOSING AUSTRALIA

I run into a bit of trouble when explaining this project to people. I will be spending a significant amount of time in every continent except for Australia, and my reasons sometimes don't mean a lot without knowing more.


Photo courtesy of travelnt.com

Originally when I drew this plan out, I would take my first cargo ship from the west coast to New Zealand or Australia. I soon learned that there was no passenger ferry service between these two countries, and even more detrimental to my plans, nothing between mainland Australia and Indonesia or other points in Southeast Asia. I would be relying on sheer chance once I arrived in Oz, hoping that another cargo ship would be departing for Jakarta or Singapore. Those routes are less frequent than trans-Pacific shipping lanes, and never scheduled more than a couple weeks in advance. This could mean anything from a two week to three month wait to board the next vessel, all of which would be traveling from Sydney or Melbourne, also my point of entry.

For a project about movement, I decided that traveling through Australia and returning to my point of origin rather than to the north of the island or another place to catch a boat would be possibly too time consuming, and altogether counter-productive to my idea. There will be many unknowns and detours along the way I am sure, but I do not have the budget to stay a possible three months in a relatively expensive country in what would amount to a stall in my movement.

Thursday, May 14, 2009

I AM NOT A LEPER

The first visa I will need, and possibly the most bureaucratic of any embassy's requirements prior to my trip is without a doubt China.



I have never been to China yet, but when I visited Taiwan they only asked me a question or two upon arrival and seemed to be glad to let me come. China has some different things on their mind apparently:



My favorite question had to do with what sort of trouble I could be bringing with me. I wonder what type of person in their right mind would answer yes to this question. Thankfully, I am not a leper.

WHAT THIS IS ALL ABOUT

It's not that I don't like planes. Actually, I cannot think of much better than sitting in a window seat while a plane emerges from the clouds and glides gently above them. It is also a necessity for international travel. We do not have weeks to travel back and forth over oceans and overland to our destination. When we want to be in India, we can be there tomorrow.

But this eliminates the validity of the old cliché that purports to claim that there is more fulfillment in the journey than in the destination itself.

There have been a lot of instances in the past where I have drawn lines on maps, charting possible overland journeys that I could attempt in the future. The origin of this movement project probably lies in history almost a decade back, but the first serious logistical brainstorming came after pulling the map out of the flight magazine on my way back from Helsinki in April 2007.



As shown in red, my initial thoughts were that I would travel first south through Latin America and circumnavigate the globe to the East. I was not sure about shipping lines, so the thinking was that I would either get from Brazil to Senegal or South Africa in major ports, make my way to Europe and/or the Middle East and through Central Asia to China, Southeast Asia, and Australia before heading back home across the Pacific. I also pulled a blue pen out and made an alternate northerly route that passed through Greenland and northern Europe.

Through reasons that I will document to come, Central Asia and Australia became such troubling unknowns that I had to rework the route around them, and now am traveling west around the Earth to be in the best places during the seasons I want.

I feel like my ability to observe and write about the things I come across excels the most when I am on the move, on various forms of transportation, crossing borders and transitions, and trying to solve headaches involved with it all. You get a glimpse of what is best and worst of a country and its people in these situations. There is always trouble in the form of bureaucracy or hustler, but the complete stranger that is willing to help you without question is 90% of what you remember in the end. The world is an amazing place, full of amazing people with vast differences, but there is something that ties all of this together in a kindness that is very small scale. When we think about people as a faraway group, we tend to generalize and stereotype, and for many people this leads to the misguided ignorance and passive bigotry.

We can never know this world or even come close to figuring it all out, but it is only through travel and firsthand experience that we can catch a glimpse into the hearts and minds of the people on the other side. Through movement around the world, passing by so many different regions, countries, and continents, I hope to see all the beautiful differences of this human race but more importantly hope to catch these qualities that we all share.

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

IT MIGHT HAPPEN LIKE THIS...

On paper, everything is simple. The blue line easily crosses oceans and borders. We'll see what happens in real life.

I will get more into detail about each region and country as the days go by, but for now here is an overview of what I think my projected route will be, starting in New York City and heading west.

INTRODUCING THE HANJIN MADRID

My home for two weeks.


photo courtesy of containershipping.nl

I will be aboard this ship, the Hanjin Madrid, for approximately two weeks, departing from Vancouver and ending on the other side of the Pacific upon arrival in Hong Kong.

For more photos, enjoy here: